Day 12: Findhorn Viaduct to Lairg

What. A. Day!!

If started off at the wild camping place after another poor night of sleep. It was better than the night before but was still not enough, and it also started raining during the night. As well as disturbing my sleep, I had to pack up with everything getting soaking wet. I was so tired.

I had breakfast nearby and the tiredness really hit me even more. The packing up took ages (my dodgy back and hands aching from holding handlebars all day didn’t help), and I started riding really late again; probably gone 11:30am. It ended up being an epic day in the end though!

On the road and heading North

Firstly I rode to Inverness, where the rain started. I found a nice cafe with a rainbow flag proudly displayed on a decorative bike placed outside. It also didn’t serve milk, everything was plant based. An oat milk latte and amazing chocolate orange brownie it was then. I presume they didn’t have dairy in the brownie either, but damn it tasted fine. I couldn’t tell any difference.

Alness and hill climbing

Once I’d made it to Alness (north of Inverness and over the amazing Keswick Bridge), and had a pizza in a strange cafe there (served all sorts of stuff), I pressed on. I think there were 7km or 8km of climbs out of there… and then fog! The view when the fog cleared though.. oh my.

I actually said ‘oh my god’ out loud when I rode past a clearing and saw the sunshine on the loch below and on the opposite valley. I took a photo. Looked crap on the photo (see below)… it really wasn’t like that in real life!

I then went down a descent… and said ‘wow’ out loud and pulled over again. I’ve seen quite a few cool views in my 45 years, but this one was there or thereabouts … right up towards the top. It was a view across several bodies of water, including Dornoch Firth. It was amazing in several directions, and you could see numerous mountain ranges. The view was on Struie Hill, and there was a pull over vantage point. Again, my own picture looks rubbish!

Midgie wars

I pulled over at one point to put my lights on… whoosh... the midgies were all over me. They got me good… I was itching for the rest of the ride (and am still itching now).

One of of the descents (around about 7pm), it was like a hyperspace scene in Star Wars! I had my goggles on and, as I was descending, midgies were hitting my goggles… and my arms and my legs! Hundreds of them… not great! They’re everywhere out here.

Lap of honour… or is it…?

As has been the case a few times, I thought I was easing home - around the amazing Kyle of Sutherland body of water (interesting name… looks just like a loch)… and then things went mildly belly up.

Firstly, I saw three bulls… and was horrified when I realised I had to ride down a tiny little path past them! Ok, there was a fence in the way…. but they were each the size of two Mini cars… and massive animals aren’t my thing! No photo… as I don’t want to upset them…

After that… there was foot bridge that looked like it had been stuck on a the side railway bridge as an afterthought (and a plaque later confirmed that was exactly what happened). It looked like something from Indiana Jones! I had to carry my bike down steps (slipping and cutting my hand in the wet weather - but not badly), and then had to walk across mesh walkway. The things is… you could see everything beneath you!! With maybe a 100 foot drop!!! Oh my. I got by eventually - admittedly by not looking down much - and then I was on the road to the hotel (I’d booked it as it’s expected to get in late - I got in at 9:15pm - and it was wet).

I rode along the River Shin for the last few miles (the hotel is just off Loch Shin), and it was spectacular. If you haven’t been around here, it needs to be added to your bucket list. It rivals anything I’ve seen elsewhere.

Home and dry… and itching

I’m writing this from the hotel bar, packed full of very merry locals. The people in this small town clearly know how to have fun! I’m on pint three myself… it’s important to blend in with the locals if you’re not in your home neighbourhood in my opinion :)