Day 9: Moffat to Dunfermline

After a good night of sleep at the tremendous hostel (more like a nice small hotel), we started the day with a ‘Wee Breakfast’ at Cafe Ariete (something to do with a ram). This nice little cafe in Moffat served us eggs, toast, bacon, sausage… and tattie scones! All washed down with latte and orange juice. We agreed that we had fallen on our feet.

We then hit the road knowing that most of the climbing was in the first 15 miles today. The roads weren’t steep, more like long drags. Eventually the bulk of the climbing was out of the way and everything pointed the same way; our road (quiet and presumably the old way of getting to Edinburgh/Glasgow), the M74 (very busy), the railway line and also the Clyde river were side by side at one stage.

Into the wild

As has been the case consistently, the route eventually went off into the sticks, following the Clyde when it deviated from the motorway. There were lots of sheep on the roads - which was fine - but one area contained a lot of very large cows and some were blocking the road! They did move, but only when we got very close. Completely terrifying as they were massive. I was just thankful that there were no bulls given I was wearing my bright red Wales cycling shirt.

We then rode through a couple of forests, even spotting a few more wild deer. The count is up to four now. The scenery was spectacular, with beautiful hills and the mountains in the distance becoming bigger and bigger as the hours went on.

The hunt for food

We went for the small breakfast in Moffat as we had planned to get 25 miles in an eat again. A good plan in theory, but in practice the towns are very spread out in this part of Scotland. Also the route deliberately goes for quiet roads and so tends to avoid the few built-up areas that do exist. The final problem was that quote a few of the cafes I did find on Google Maps were closed on a Monday. We should have had the massive breakfast option in Moffat!

Eventually we targetted a pie shop in Carnwath, with our appetites built up by an unnecessary extra two miles up a hill (due to me messing up the route - whoops!). All’s well that ends well though. Soon we were sat outside the Apple Pie bakery. I went for a beef and haggis pie, washed down with Iron Bru (when in Rome!). The pie was truly amazing. They are all made on site, and the meat was crumbly and the filling delicious. We were speaking to a chap from Glasgow outside and he started laughing when I described the pie as ‘world class’. I wasn’t joking!!

We eventually got to more built-up areas. Firstly Hamilton and then down towards Queensferry. The route was safe enough, even despite another navigational miscue (a 10 mile detour this time). We also saw our first long-haired highland cows. Why didn’t I get a photo!?!

The Forth Bridges

Google Maps found some fun off-road tracks - with lots of dog walkers on - at the edge of Queensferry, and at last we were by the Forth bridges. They are all spectacular, and the dog walkers were laughing at our blatant tourism (see below!).

They bridge we crossed - the Forth Road Bridge (the middle one!) - was just so high. It would be terrifying on a windy day as the platform was moving even without too much breeze. Also, I’d suggest not looking down when you are near the middle of it like I did. Terrifying!

The approach to Dunfermline

Soon, after directions from a group of cyclists, we found Dunfermline. We followed Google Maps for the last part… and it took up the steepest hill to the hotel… thanks for that! It just started raining when we arrived, so it was perfect timing.

We then hit a couple of pubs… literally. Only two were open! Had to be done though after our solid 80 mile ride.