Day 11: South West Cairngorms to Findhorn Viaduct

First day of wild camping… and very poor sleep! Woke up at 2:30am for a while. Then some car lights on the tent woke me up… then woke up again at just before 6am. Eventually dozed off and - with phoning people and messing about with my luggage - eventually left at 11:30am! Quite the lie in. 

Edge of the Cairngorms


The route didn’t go through the Cairngorms; it skirted around the edge of it. After 10 miles or so climbing gently - added to the 15 miles or so slightly uphill yesterday - I was at every cyclists dream… the top of a gentle 25 mile descent! Just perfect. 


Terrain was varied. Sometimes on tarmac parallel to the A-road, sometimes gravel, sometimes on nice paths. Mostly with the right direction of gradient though. I did double back once though… I had just ridden past a snake!! Video below. 


Garage at Dalwhinnie


I came across a sleepy looking garage - it looked like something out of Thelma and Louise - and bought a bar of chocolate and a few fizzy drinks. 


I sat on the bench and was joined by a woman in her sixties and her three or four year old grandson Charlie. She was not happy as she had bought the child an ice cream and didn’t want it. She reluctantly ate it, complaining that ‘this will make me fatter’. 


We had a chat but I had to repeat every sentence, and vice versa. She was in the way back to Skye and was not used to accents that had been mangled by numerous English cities, and who can blame her for that… I’m the imposter around here! She laughed when I said that I was apprehensive about wild camping, as she said wouldn’t give two seconds of thought to pitching up in the Highlands. She listened to me… thought for a minute… and said that I was ‘afraid of being murdered’. She was right! I set off, leaving the lady, Charlie and the tame ducks he was fascinated by. 


Avimore awaits


There were few towns between Dilwhinnie and Avimore but there was the most spectacular countryside. I found myself stopping every few minutes at one point, to take photos. The backdrop of amazing mountains and fabulous streams and rivers was just astonishing to look at. 


When I got to Avimore I was surprised. It had been discovered… largely by the English!!! It was busy and (generally well-to-do) English accents were everywhere. Oh, and a hell of a lot of people in branded walking clobber!


A chap was riding behind me and, seeing that I was lost, took a detour to get me to a cafe. It was the cafe at the shop he worked at (part-time - he was a retired teacher). Nice man. He moved her 20 years ago and was just keen to help someone unfamiliar to the area. He gave me a few tips for wild camping (Carrbridge was recommended - but I wanted to go on for a bit), and I appreciated his advice. He shook my hand and wished me well. I could tell he was the caring, paternal sort. 


Towards Inverness


I decided to eat some food in Avimore and press on, as I wanted to wild camp again. I thought there was no point pitching up to wild camp early afternoon so was happy having a break then riding until 8:30pm or so. It was cold on higher ground last night, so I started looking for places to stay when I got down into a valley… and goodness did I find somewhere! See the pictures below… a spectacular sheep field by an amazing viaduct and river. No sheep though… as far as I can see. Also… a cafe close by for breakfast. I’ll be asleep shortly, and hoping I can at least get some of this square sausage stuff that my wife often tells me about. That’s assuming I don’t get attached by wild haggis in the night. Wish me luck!


On the way down the hill to Avimore.

One of the many shots of the beautiful countryside I took.

One step closer!! My first time here… and it’s amazing!

The friendliest, fattest ducks. Charlie was intrigued.

Postcard stuff. Amazing… and everywhere. 

Another one.

Fabulous, super-tall pines.

Avimore. The shop with the cafe the nice man took me to.

It was like this (Hansel and Gretel!) for about 10 miles out of Avimore.

Beat that! Again!

Wild camping for a second day… but what a spot!

Richard 1 - Midgies 0.

Dinner is served.
Snakes on a bike path!




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